Santa / Santa’s Helper Stocking Cap Tutorial

Are you in need of a little Christmas-themed party accessory? Do you have an afternoon to spare? Well then, we’ve got just the project for you! We’ve got a few Christmas-theme parties coming up - with a dress code - and we realized that we were clean out of shelf elves or ugly sweaters, but we can sew! So, what’s better than a customized Santa’s Helper stocking cap!?

The following tutorial gives cutting and assembly instructions, but you’ll need to take measurements of your head (or the head of whoever is going to wear the hat) and ultimately cut out your fabric using those measurements.

Level: Confident Beginner (suitable for people who have already sewn a few projects).

Note: this project uses ¼" or ⅛" seam allowances; if you prefer a more generous seam allowance, you will need to adapt the cutting measurements accordingly.

Step 1: measure the circumference of your head (or if it’s a gift, the head circumference of the gift recipient), then add 1" to get the total width including seam allowances (¼");

• don’t measure the circumference too tightly or the hat will be too tight at the end;

• if the circumference is 21" or smaller, you can use Fat Quarters for this project; if not, you’ll need to use yardage.

Step 2: decide the height of the stocking cap; our examples are between 18" and 20 ½" tall.

Step 3: select and iron two pieces of fabric, one for the lining and one for the outside of the stocking cap (pre-washed or not, up to you).

Step 4: if using yardage, cut fabric to measurements, taking into account the directionality of the prints;

• for our red hat, we cut two rectangles measuring 23" x 18" (one for the lining and one for the outside);

• cut out a rectangular strip of contrasting fabric for the brim, using the width of your rectangle minus 1" x 3";

  • for our red hat, we cut a rectangle of 22" x 3".

Step 5: fold your big rectangles in half vertically and mark the top center of your fabric.

Step 6: measure 1" to either side of the top center mark, and mark both places on your fabric;

• if you want a narrower top point on your stocking cap, you can measure out and mark only ¾" from either side of the center mark.

Step 7: measuring up from the bottom of your big rectangles, mark 3" on either (vertical) side of the fabric;

• this measurement needs to match the width of your brim, so if you have cut a brim of only 2", then mark 2" up from the bottom of your rectangle.

Step 8: draw a diagonal line connecting the marks on the bottom of the rectangle with the marks on the top of the rectangle;

• do this for both fabrics.

Step 9: cut fabric along the diagonal lines; now you have the basic shape of your stocking cap!

• You can place the fabrics one on top of the other and cut them at the same time using a rotary cutter to be sure that the pieces are identical.

Step 10: sew the two fabrics together, right sides facing, leaving the bottom edge open;

• use a ¼" seam allowance.

Step 11: trim the corners at an angle and trim the seam allowances to reduce bulk.

Step 12: turn the fabric inside out, paying attention to the corners, and gently press.

Step 13: sew the bauble or other decoration securely to the top of the hat using a ⅛" seam allowance;

• sew the decoration to the outside fabric, making sure to place the decoration so that it hangs over the outside fabric toward the bottom of the rectangle;

• be careful that the decoration is not too bulky because you will need to sew around it and have room to enclose it using a ¼" seam allowance; 

• you can test the bulk first by simply pinning it in place to the top and then by folding your hat in two (vertically) to see if you will be able to easily sew around the decoration.

Step 14: fold the hat in two vertically and sew it, right sides together, using a ¼" seam allowance, and  leaving the bottom edge open for your head.

Step 15: turn the hat inside out and gently press.

Step 16: to make the hat brim, sew the ends of your long rectangle (22" x 3") together, right sides facing, using a ¼" seam allowance.*

* NOTE: There is more than one way to attach the hat brim (it is similar to attaching a simple sleeve cuff); we have selected this method, but feel free to use a different way!

Step 17: press seam open.

Step 18: fold over ¼" along the length of one edge of the strip and press, wrong sides together.

Step 19: fold in half along the length of the strip and press, lining up the edges.

Step 20: open up the strip and pin it along the outside of the bottoming opening of the hat, right sides together, being careful to align the seams of both pieces; 

• pin the edge of the strip WITHOUT the ¼" fold to the hat, as in the photo.

Step 21: sew these two pieces together, right sides facing, using a ¼" seam allowance.

Step 22: using the fold previously pressed into the fabric, fold the brim in half, wrong sides together, toward the inside the hat, and hand stitch it in place along the inside ¼" fold (using a slip stitch, for example; see tutorial at Tilly and the Buttons); 

• alternatively, simply fold the brim in half toward the inside of the hat, secure, and then top-stitch it in place on the outside of the hat along the edge of the join with the hat, using a seam allowance slightly smaller than ¼".

And, voilà, you have finished your Santa (or Santa’s Helper) stocking cap!

P.S. The fabric featured here comes from the Christmas Past collection by Cloud9 Fabrics.